Antarctica and Beyond!: Day 21 – 16 January 2013. Eco Camp – Torres del Paine

Up early at 5.20 in hope that we can see the sun rise and hit the peaks behind our camp. Quite cool overnight, clear night with stars. Was nice to snuggle into the Polarfleece.

The sun took nearly an hour, but was great to see the clouds in the East colour up and eventually hit the peaks in a golden glow.

Feeling a little yuk today – a bit chesty, oh well, hopefully our walk will burn it off.

OMG – what a walk – 2 ½ hours from Refugio Paine, over Patagonian flats, that was 7.6kms then lunch. THEN 2 hours steep walk to a viewpoint to look at the peaks or towers, (not sure which exactly, we still haven’t sorted out what bits of rock get what title) the Horns and other mountains, not sure.

We started with the obligatory bus trip back to the Park Entrance, then around to catch a Catamaran across Lake Pehoe to the Refugio – which was the start of the walk. Writing this diary at the end of the day, we have sore EVERYTHING, feel Achilles, calves, thighs, but mainly feet. The views were spectacular and Catalina and Alexis, our guides, were brilliant, 10 out of 11 of us made it to the top, which is the middle section of the famous ‘W’ walk up French Valley – Valle Frances. Glen was crook so he stopped with Alexis at the lunch spot and had a snooze. Sitting on the Catamaran back again, stiff, sore, sunburnt and a tad worried about what we have to do tomorrow. However I stress again the view of

· Mt Paine (blue)

· The Towers

· The Lift

· The Horns were unbelievable.

We saw some icefalls and then turned around for the downhill journey. Mary and I led and just kept going, no rest stops on the way back – we weren’t’ game to stop in case we couldn’t get going again.

The Refugio – “Paine Grande” has space for tents, with showers and loos, a hostel area and rooms as well as bar and mini market. It was a hive of activity, this whole place is set up for hikers/trekkers/etc. I can’t believe the treks these people do carrying full packs etc – no bloody way for me.

The catamaran is chockers – heaps of trekkers.

Walking back I spotted an owl, only about 15-20 cm tall – Mary got some excellent photos – later we identified as a Pygmy Owl. Had the most brilliant piercing golden yellow eyes.

The terrain today was amazing, we walked the Patagonian Steppe around Lake Melizzas and Lake Nodernskjold. E walked through treed areas ravaged by bushfires, but some regeneration happening. Lots of plants/ flowers again including

· Dry love – a sticky ball of red and green that you throw at people which sticks to clothing.

· Purple flower – Little Star

· Brilliant red flower – Firebush/ Notro

· Lady’s slipper – Zappatito – Little Virgen’s Shoe

· Bright golden patch of flowers which looked like and turned out to be Alstromeria Patagonica

· Pricklyheath

· Wild Blue pea

· Even saw a Patagonian mouse on way back to van, after wondering during the day if there were any rodents

· Also saw a little Grey Fox coming out of some rocks from the bus this morning.

Back to camp for a very well earned shower before our cocktails. Then our group ate together in the bar and learnt that at the end of our arduous climb Ben proposed to Nicolette, really nice couple from Kununurra. So they were engaged in the less than 5 minute stop we had at the top. Ben totally surprised Nicolette and has a ring at home. A lovely end to the day, how amazing for them. Interesting to that we have no internet or connection with outside world so their families won’t know for several more days.