Antarctica and Beyond!: Day 9 – 4 January 2013. Paradise Bay. Neko Harbour

WOW!!! The camping was amazing, we pretty much chose our spot, kicked out our bed shape, made our beds, using coats and life jackets for pillows and then got in and snuggled in for the night. It was about 11.30pm, the sun was sort of setting, some stunning reflections and colours at ‘sunset’. I stayed awake to take a midnight shot, still broad daylight. It just does NOT get dark.

Whilst outside was freezing, it was toasty, if a little squishy in the bag, I took my good camera and wasn’t game to leave it outside.

I woke many times during the night but the views were impressive. Also lots of ‘cracking’ glaciers and ice falls during the night – otherwise the silence was deafening. A few birds calling was the only other noise around.

People started to stir around 4.30-5.00, as we were told the first zodiac would return to Polar Pioneer about then, however it was a bit later. Some were EXTREMELY keen to get back as they were cold and certainly NOT happy campers.

We were quite warm and toasty and were stoked we had actually done it, and would do it again.

EVERYDAY we can’t believe it just gets better and better, with each day providing us with some experience that adds to those of the day before.

Following camping we unpacked and waited for our breaky, we were starving. BTW forget to mention, that there were no loos at camping. If we needed to pee, we had to stand in the water, to poop, they had abucket. Needless to say most people held on and Mary and I certainly did.

The days are so long and photos are out of control, struggling to keep up at all. There is always something to do and see. Getting ready to go ashore takes 20 minutes or so.

Keeping up with diary and blog is a real effort, but well worth it, as I am now using my diary to write the blog.

After breaky, next stop was Amarante Brown Station – actually the Antarctic continent, to date we have been on the peninsula. This is an Argentinean base in Paradise Bay. We went ashore and spent our time watching the penguins in and around the water. It was unreal to watch them ‘fly’ underwater so easily, so sleek and streamlined. The water was quite shallow with a rocky bottom, which made for a great backdrop for some photos. Took many, many photos in the attempt to capture the penguins ‘porpoising’ through the water and air.

Following that we took to the zodiacs for a cruise of the most amazing glacier filled Skontorp Cove in Paradise Bay (Glacier Bay in Alaska pales in comparison.) We saw:

· cormorants and Cape (Pintado) Petrels with chicks, nesting up in rock walls.

· Minke whales – these guys move much faster than the humpbacks and don’t seem as interested in us.

· Some awesome reflections of the hugest glaciers

· We saw one calve, and rode out the tsunami. One of the zodiacs was much closer and got a bit of a fright from it all.

· We got to stand on an iceberg, while Dr John, drove the zodiac away to take a photo

· Another astounding zodiac cruise, thanks to Dr John.

Lunch was again yummo – chilli prawn pasta, after which we fought the urge to sleep (short night on the ice)

After lunch it was out for another landing at Neko Harbour, which provided us with lots and lots of Gentoo penguins, some Weddell seals and an opportunity to sit and watch it all. We also saw some skuas. It was quite sunny and pleasant to sit and watch. We were weary so we trudged back to the zodiac, only to be told there were friendly Minke whales near the ship, so off we went, we saw it surface a few times, then had to drop two crew members back to the ship. (about 9 of the Russian crew members, took the opportunity to climb the large mountain behind Neko and bum slide down the steep slope, only to walk back up and do it again – a bit of a break from the routine of many months on board the ship). Gary said Mary and I could stay on the Zodiac to look for the Minke’s some more, as we were about to un hitch from the gangplank, the minke came RIGHT alongside the zodiac and sprayed us with his/her blow – OMG we were snotted on by a Minke, he was so big right beside the zodiac, Gary, Mary & I were all way to slow to get a photo – it was a brilliant moment.

Then Mary and I had our own little Minke ‘hunting’ trip for another 20 minutes or so, hopeful of some good shots…tho they are so quick it is very difficult.

Just writing up the diary in the cabin. We have a great cabin – no. 306. All the cabins are configured a bit differently, we love ours, it is very roomy, we are close to the toilets – so it seems like an ensuite anyway. I’m sitting in the cabin, so I can get caught up a bit, as in the bar there are always people to talk to and things just don’t get done before dinner.

Dinner tonight was “Chef’s Night Out” – which meant a BBQ on the back deck prepared by Chef and staff (not the Russian crew) A party atmosphere, a bit chilly. Great snags, pork shaslicks and salads followed by Berry Cheesecake with Gluwein. There was also a couple of boxes of ‘silly hats’ and everyone was expected to don a funny hat…I ended with something like a Cat in the Hat hat, although some thought it was “Where’s Wally?”

Then off to the bar for a little while, finally to bed – shattered after an absolutely wonderful but HUMUNGUS day.

Ooops this one is a bit out of order, a camping out shot, taken in the early of this morning, but really belong to yesterday's blog writing.

reflections.

flying penguin, this is underwater from above.

Just a mossy, rocky, feathery shot I liked.

A view from the water's edge while trying to capture penguins, the water is just so clean and clear.

what a little cutie, but then they ALL are.

Liked the moss and the curvy way the rocks have twisted into the water.

This shot is to provide perspective, there are two zodiacs closer to the glaciers, and they are still a safe distance away. They are just awesome in their size.

More reflections - I can assure you there are many more to come when I get them sorted later on.

and again...the clear patch in the brash ice, provides amazing reflections.

A hole in the iceberg showing some different blue hues in the sunshine.

An Antarctic tern flying across the face of a glacier. This was a cute and very fast little bird, happy to catch this shot. Lovely soft grey colour in the body, with a black head.

Linda and Mary up the front, getting that Kodak shot.

Checkout the blues of the water and the edge of iceberg under the water.

Here is our zodiac standing on an icefloe - L-R Mary, Me, Nahoko, Miho, Linda, David, Susan and ???. Dr John dropped us off and took the photo.

Ship shot.

ooh, is that an itchy eye you have there?

Penguin foot.

Nice gentoo head shot.

Gaye sitting on her rock, penguin whispering. Gary offering a handful of stones...to no avail and Linda capturing some more shots.

Minke Fin.

Minke head. I was pretty proud of this one, they are so quick and hard to catch. They usually blow just as they surface, so you react to the noise and hope for the best.